What is the difference between pre-qualifying and pre-approval?
A pre-qualification for a specific loan dollar amount is based on a
review of basic financial information you supply to us. No verification
of this information is performed. The pre-qualification means that if
the information you supplied to us is accurate, subject to verification
of credit, appraisal of the property, and the lenders underwriting
criteria for the loan amount, you should be able to receive a loan as
described in the pre-qualification letter or document. This is not a
final approval. A pre-qualification is not a commitment to lend.
However, a pre-qualification letter indicates to you and the seller
that in the opinion of the loan officer you are qualified to purchase
the house you are making an offer on.
Pre-approval is a step above pre-qualification. Pre-approval involves
verifying your credit, down payment, employment history, etc. Your loan
application is submitted to an underwriter and a decision is made
regarding your loan application. If your loan is pre-approved, the
lender will loan you money on the basis that you requested subject to:
a satisfactory appraisal (both as to value and type of product); your
financial condition remains as stated on your application and
satisfying any underwriting conditions from the lender.
Getting your loan pre-approved allows you to close very quickly when
you do find a house. A pre-approval can help you negotiate a better
price with the seller, since being pre-approved is very close to having
cash in the bank to pay for the house!
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What are the advantages of a mortgage broker versus a thrift or a mortgage banker?
First
we need to define the terms. A thrift is your typical
neighborhood bank - mutual savings banks and savings-and-loan
institutions offering savings accounts, mortgages and other financial
products and services. Mortgage bankers work for a single lender and
are in the sole business of lending money. Mortgage brokers, on the
other hand, are middlemen who, by state law, work on behalf of
borrowers. Brokers counsel borrowers on the loan options available from
different wholesalers and then research a number of lending sources -
commercial banks, thrifts and mortgage bankers - to find appropriate
loans to meet the specific needs of borrowers they represent.
Mortgage brokers do not add any net cost to the lending process because
they perform functions that would otherwise have to be done by
employees of the lender. When a broker processes the paperwork on
a loan, it costs less for the lender to make the loan. Therefore,
lenders often discount loans to brokers. The borrower pays no
additional cost and benefits from the broker's service. By state law,
the broker's fee and the discount the lender offers the broker must be
disclosed to the borrower.
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What are credit scores?
A credit score (such as FICO - developed by Fair Isaac & Co and
used by Experian, or BECON – developed and used by Equifax or EMPIRICA
– developed and used by Trans Union) or credit scoring is a method of
determining the likelihood that a credit user (you) will pay their
bills. Fair Isaac began its pioneering work with credit scoring in the
late 1950’s. Since then scoring has become widely accepted by lenders
as a reliable means of credit evaluation. A credit score attempts to
condense a borrower’s credit history into a single number. Fair, Isaac
& Co. and the credit bureaus do not reveal how these scores are
computed. The Federal Trade Commission has ruled this practice to be
acceptable.
Credit scores are calculated by using scoring models and mathematical
tables that assign points for different pieces of information that best
predict future credit performance. Developing these models involves
studying how thousands, even millions, of people that have used credit.
Score-model developers find predictive factors in the data that have
proven to indicate future credit performance. Models can be developed
from different sources of data. Credit-bureau models are developed from
information in consumer credit-bureau reports.
Credit scores analyze a borrower's credit history considering many factors such as:
Late payments
The amount of time credit has been established
The amount of credit used versus the amount of credit available
Length of time at present residence
Employment history
Negative credit information such as bankruptcies, charge-off’s, collections, etc.
There are really three credit scores computed by data provided by each
of the three bureaus––Experian, Trans Union and Equifax. Some lenders
use one of these three scores, while other lenders may use the middle
score and still others may use all three.
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How can I increase my score?
While it is difficult to increase your score over the short run, here
are some tips to increase your score over a period of time.
Pay your bills on time. Late payments and collections can have a serious impact on your score.
Do not apply for credit frequently. Having a large number of inquiries
on your credit report can worsen your score.
Reduce your credit card balances. If you are "maxed" out on your credit
cards, this will affect your credit score negatively.
If you have limited credit, obtain additional credit. Not having
sufficient credit can negatively impact your score. (Normally lenders
like to see you have at least five (5) lines of credit not including
utilities (such as telephone, gas and electric companies) and oil
company credit cards.
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What if there is an error on my credit report?
If you see an error on your report, to rectify it, you must contact the
credit bureau. The three major bureaus in the U.S., Equifax
(1-800-685-1111), Trans Union (1-800-916-8800) and Experian
(1-888-397-3742) all have procedures for correcting information
promptly. Alternatively, we as your mortgage company may help you
correct this problem as well. Understand this process takes time, must
be done in writing, and may require proof depending on the nature of
the error.
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Why are interest rates different from day to day and one source to another?
Interest rate movements are based on the simple concept of supply and
demand. If the demand for credit (loans) increases, so do interest
rates. This is because there are more buyers, so sellers (those who
loan the money) can command a better price, i.e. higher rates. If the
demand for credit reduces, then so do interest rates. This is because
there are more sellers than buyers, so buyers can command a lower
better price, i.e. lower rates. When the economy is expanding there is
a higher demand for credit, so rates move higher, whereas when the
economy is slowing the demand for credit decreases and so do interest
rates.
This leads to a fundamental concept:
Bad news (i.e. a slowing economy) is good news for interest rates (i.e. lower rates).
Good news (i.e. a growing economy) is bad news for interest rates (i.e. higher rates).
A major factor driving interest rates is inflation. Higher inflation is
associated with a growing economy. When the economy grows too strongly,
the Federal Reserve increases interest rates to slow the economy down
and reduce inflation. Inflation results from prices of goods and
services increasing. When the economy is strong, there is more demand
for goods and services, so the producers of those goods and services
can increase prices. A strong economy therefore results in higher real
estate prices, higher rents on apartments and higher mortgage rates.
Mortgage rates tend to move in the same direction as interest rates.
However, actual mortgage rates are also based on supply and demand for
mortgages. The supply/demand equation for mortgage rates may be
different from the supply/demand equation for interest rates. This
might sometimes result in mortgage rates moving differently from other
rates. For example, one lender may be forced to close additional
mortgages to meet a commitment they have made. This results in them
offering lower rates even though interest rates may have moved up!
There is an inverse relationship between bond prices and bond rates.
This can be confusing. When bond prices move up, interest rates move
down and vice versa. This is because bonds tend to have a fixed price
at maturity––typically $1000. If the price of the bond is currently at
$900 and there are 10 years left on the bond and if interest rates
start moving higher, the price of the bond starts dropping. The higher
interest rates will cause increased accumulation of interest over the
next 10 years, such that a lower price (e.g. $880) will result in the
same maturity price, i.e. $1000.
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Do I need flood insurance?
Most lenders will not lend you money to buy a home in a flood hazard
area unless you pay for flood insurance. Some government loan programs
will not allow you to purchase a home that is located in a flood hazard
area. Your lender may charge you a fee to check for flood hazards. You
will be notified if flood insurance is required. If a change in flood
insurance maps brings your home within a flood hazard area after your
loan is made, your lender or service may require you to buy flood
insurance at that time.
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What are your rates?
The first question customers usually ask when calling a mortgage
company or lender is "What are your rates?" Because of the number of
mortgage programs available and the various rate and point
combinations, most mortgage companies have rate sheets that are 5-10
pages long.
Getting a rate quote is just a small part of shopping for a mortgage
and usually not the best way to select a lender. Customer service,
professional staff, convenience, and flexibility are some of the key
attributes to selecting the best lender for your needs.
In helping you assess a rate, you will need to provide answers to a few basic questions like:
What is your purchase price?
What loan amount are you looking for or what loan amount do you want to finance?
Do you prefer a fixed rate or an adjustable rate mortgage?
How long do you plan to live in the house?
How many points are you willing to pay?
The purchase price or the value of your home affects the rate because
it affects the size of the loan. For example, Jumbo Loans, currently
over $322,700, have a higher rate. Similarly, smaller loans have a
higher rate or cost more because it costs the same and takes the same
effort to do $35,000 loan as it does a $200,000 loan. Lenders and
brokers need to make or charge a certain minimum amount of money to
cover overhead, per loan (transaction) cost and make a profit.
The type of loan (fixed or variable) affects the rate because it
affects the lenders’ income and inflation risk. For example, with a
fixed rate loan, if rates go up the lender could lend out money at a
higher rate than they are currently loaning it to you, and therefore
earn more money. With a variable rate loan since the rate the lender
can charge you changes regularly their income remains consistent with
their current income opportunities. Therefore with variable rate loans
they give you a better rate since they know that if rates go up they
can charge you more.
The length of time you will own a house affects both the type of loan
you may want and the amount of points it may make sense to pay. For
example, if you are going to keep a house for a short period of time
(let’s say 3 years), you may be better off with a variable rate loan
(e.g. a 3/1 ARM – fixed for 3 years and varies once a year every year
there- after until the loan is paid off). Why? Because typically the
3/1 ARM has a lower rate associated with it than a 30 year fixed rate
loan and since you will sell the house in 3 years you would not be
affected by higher rates which may exist at that time. On the other
hand, if you expect to live in the house for 30 years you might be
willing to pay some points to receive a lower interest rate now. The
lower interest rate would save you money every month over the life of
the loan. The total savings in this situation should be greater than
the cost of points, giving consideration to the amount that the point
money could earn if invested (saved) after taxes.
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What happens if my loan gets sold or my lender goes out of business?
Your loan can be sold at any time. There is a secondary mortgage market
in which lenders frequently buy and sell pools of mortgages. This
secondary mortgage market results in lower rates for consumers. A
lender buying your loan assumes all terms and conditions of the
original loan. As a result, the only thing that changes when a loan is
sold is to whom you mail your payment. If your loan has been sold, your
existing lender will notify you that your loan has been sold, who your
new lender is, and where you should send your payments from now on.
If
your lender goes out of business, you are still obligated to make
payments! Typically, loans owned by a lender going out of business are
sold to another lender. The lender purchasing your loan is obligated to
honor the terms and conditions of the original loan. Therefore, if your
lender goes out of business, it makes little difference with regards to
your loan payments. In some cases, there may be a gap between the date
of your lender's going out of business and the date that a new lender
purchases your loan. In such a situation, continue making payments to
your old lender until you are asked to make payments to your new lender.
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Does zero points really mean zero points?
Points are a cash payment as part of the charge for the loan, expressed
as a percent of the loan amount; e.g., "2 points" means a charge equal
to 2% of the loan balance. Points can be used to "buy down" the rate on
a loan or to help fund closing costs. For example, a 30-year fixed loan
may be available at a retail price of :
8.0% with 2 points or
8.25% with 1 point or
8.5% with 0 points or
8.75% with -1 point or
9% with -2 points
On
a $200,000 loan, the loan officer can offer you 8.25% with 1 point
($2,000) cash at closing or a higher rate of 8.75% with a cost of -1
point, which is a $2,000 credit towards your closing costs. The basic
idea of the zero-fee loan is that you pay a higher rate in exchange for
cash up front, which is then used to pay the closing costs. You will
pay a higher monthly payment––so the money is really coming from future
payments that you will make.
The
best way to decide whether you should "buy down" and pay points or not
is to perform a break-even analysis. This is done as follows:
Calculate the cost of the points. Example: 2 points on a $100,000 loan is $2,000
Calculate the monthly savings on the loan as a result of obtaining a lower interest rate. Example: $50 per month
Divide
the cost of the points by the monthly savings to come up with the
number of months to break even. In the above example, this number
is 40 months. If you plan to keep the house for longer than the
break-even number of months, then it makes sense to pay points;
otherwise it does not.
The
above calculation does not take into account the tax advantages of
points. When you are buying a house the points you pay are usually
tax-deductible, so you may realize some savings immediately. On the
other hand, when you get a lower payment, your tax deduction reduces!
This makes it a little difficult to calculate the break-even time
taking taxes into account. In the case of a purchase, taxes definitely
reduce the break-even time. However, in the case of a refinance, the
points are NOT tax-deductible, but have to be amortized over the life
of the loan. This results in fewer tax benefits or none at all, so
there is little or no effect on the time to break even.
If
none of the above makes sense, use this simple rule of thumb: If you
plan to stay in the house for less than 3 years, do not pay points. If
you plan to stay in the house for more than 5 years, pay 1 to 2 points.
If you plan to stay in the house for between 3 and 5 years, it does not
make a significant difference whether you pay points or not.
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Should I refinance?
The most common reason for refinancing is to save money. Saving money through refinancing can be achieved in two ways:
By obtaining a lower interest rate that causes the monthly mortgage payment to be reduced.
By
reducing the term of the loan you actually save money over the life of
the loan. For example, refinancing from a 30-year loan to a 15-year
loan can significantly reduce the total of the payments made during the
life of the loan.
People
also refinance to convert their adjustable loan to a fixed loan. The
main reason behind this type of refinance is to obtain the stability
and the security of a fixed loan. Fixed loans are very popular when
interest rates are low, whereas adjustable loans tend to be more
popular when rates are higher. When rates are low, homeowners refinance
to lock in low rates. When rates are high, homeowners prefer adjustable
loans to obtain lower payments.
A
third reason why homeowners refinance is to consolidate debts and
replace high-interest loans with a low-rate mortgage. The loans being
consolidated may include second mortgages, credit lines, student loans,
credit cards, etc. In many cases, debt consolidation results in tax
savings, since consumers loans are not tax deductible, while a mortgage
loan is tax deductible.
The
answer to the question "Should I refinance?" is a complex one, since
every situation is different and no two homeowners are in the exact
same situation. However, if you are looking to save money, try this
calculation:
Calculate the total cost of the refinance (Example: $ 2,000)
Calculate the monthly savings (Example: $100 per month)
Divide
the total cost of the refinance (#1) by the monthly savings (#2). This
is the "break even" time. If you own the house longer than this, you
will save money by refinancing. (Example: 2,000 / 100 = 20
months to break even)
Sometimes,
you do not have a choice––you are forced to refinance. This happens
when you have a loan with a balloon provision, but with no conversion
option. In this case it is best to refinance a few months before the
balloon comes due.
Whatever you choose to do, consulting with a seasoned mortgage professional can often save you time and money.
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What is an Annual Percentage Rate (APR)?
The annual percentage rate (APR) is an interest rate that is different
from the note rate. It is commonly used to compare loan programs from
different lenders. The Federal Truth in Lending law requires mortgage
companies to disclose the APR when they advertise a rate. Typically the
APR is found next to the rate.
Example:
30-year fixed at 8% note rate and 1 point = 8.107% APR
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The
APR does NOT affect your monthly payments. Your monthly payments are a
function of the interest rate and the length of the loan.
The
APR is a very confusing number! Even mortgage bankers and brokers admit
it is confusing. The APR is designed to measure the "true cost of a
loan." It creates a level playing field for lenders. It prevents
lenders from advertising a low rate and hiding fees.
If
life were easy, all you would have to do is compare APRs from the
lenders/brokers you are working with, then pick the easiest one and you
would have the right loan. Right? Wrong!
Unfortunately,
different lenders calculate APRs differently! So a loan with a lower
APR is not necessarily a better rate. An APR also does not tell you how
long your rate is locked for. A lender who offers you a 10-day rate
lock may have a lower APR than a lender who offers you a 60-day rate
lock!
Calculating APRs on
adjustable and balloon loans is even more complex because future rates
are unknown. The result is even more confusion about how lenders
calculate APRs.
Do not
attempt to compare a 30-year loan with a 15-year loan using their
respective APRs. A 15-year loan may have a lower interest rate, but
could have a higher APR, since the loan fees are amortized over a
shorter period of time.
Finally,
many lenders do not even know what they include in their APR because
they use software programs to compute their APRs. It is quite possible
that the same lender with the same fees using two different software
programs may arrive at two different APRs!
Conclusion :
Use the APR as a starting point to compare loans. The APR is a result
of a complex calculation and not clearly defined. There is no
substitute to getting a good-faith estimate from each lender to compare
costs. Remember to exclude those costs that are independent of the
loan.
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